Day 64: A delicious and unique culinary experience before seeing the 'real Nepal'

Posted on 30 Apr 2017

Bigu-Gompa @2330m

What a difference a few thousand metres makes!!!

After a night at Nagoun we continued our descent down the Rolwaling valley, seeing the return of forest, grass, a monkey, yaks, people, bird and insect life. The team were in high spirits which I discovered was due to the potential of fresh meat at Calchey Kharka rather than the change in environment.

On arrival a small goat was subsequently purchased, prepared and that evening we all shared a Nepali style feast.

While I have eaten some strange things in my time, the contents of my bowl of starter contained more tubes, pipes, and assorted organs than I usually see, most of which I could not recognise or name. I looked up and eyes were upon me; would I eat a nice bowl of assorted innards? Ma kosis garchu.....(I'll give it a go)

The flavours where good, but the textures a little disconcerting at points, however a glass of fortifying rakshi helped them down. The main course of mutton curry was much more to my tastes, and needed much less rakshi!!!

It was great to sit and share a meal with the whole team Nepali style, and it was enjoyed by all. The next day the meal was worked off with temperatures rising to the mid 30s and a walk to Simigoan for lunch, then down to the valley bottom for our overnight camp. As I walked I continued to try and identify the organs I had ingested the previous evening, stuck on one in particular, it only became clear after asking the sex of the animal.

We have now left the mountains and walk through the lower hills, which are scattered with villages, houses, and terraces on every hillside. This is the real Nepal, the lower inhabited areas which support life rather than the high mountains which most visitors come to see; and it offers a very different experience.

While I've been the only client on stage 3, I cannot thank the team with me enough for making it a very memorable few weeks. From the spectacular sceneries, assorted innards, occasional rakshi, and the village life of Nepal it's been very enjoyable and I've picked up a bit more Nepali.

Tomorrow we head over one final low pass of just over 2000 metres, then down to the road for a bus to Kathmandu the following day. A few days of washing, resupply, rest, and perhaps a steak or two before we recommence for stage 4 and the next three months.

Matt TL Balram


Editor's note: the header pic was from Heather Hawkins (GHT 2016) of blooming rhododendrons, a common and refreshing site in Nepal each Spring.

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